Bodega Fulcro - Rias Baixas 'O Equilibrio' Albarino - 2023

The wine that started it all goes even one step further in nuance, complexity and even balance. I'm taking about the superb 2023 O Equilibrio, cropped from a very balanced year with good ripeness and very good freshness. It's precise, multifaceted, subtle and elegant, with incredible detail, focused and precise like a laser cut. The word is balance, which is what the wine's name means. They aim for more complexity and structure than A Pedreira, produced mostly with grapes from the Xesteira vineyard on schist soils and two small plots on sandy soils in Arra. It fermented and matured in used 400- to 700-liter French oak barrels for 11 months. At this price, the quality is unbelievable. It should age beautifully. 96+, Luis Gutierrez, robertparker.com