Penfolds Grange Shiraz 1998

An absolute fruit-bomb. Steeped in black fruits, it’s concentrated and ethereal, with a complex spicy, musky and lightly peppery aroma enhanced by assertive lightly toasty coconut and chocolate-like American oak. There’s also a gamey suggestion of smoked meat. Sumptuous, powerful, concentrated and astringent, its intense, briary fruit is long and seamless, thickly coated with smoky new vanilla/coconut oak, treacle and licorice. Warm and spirity to finish, it’s a muscular and massive Grange that should cellar for at least twenty years from its making.