Of all the chardonnays offered, Hillcrest is the only one eschewing new oak. It’s a site Stonier co-owner Aaron Drummond has leased since '10 (previously went into Circe), now a fixture as a single-vineyard offering. It’s always been a racy chardonnay under the Circe label, here, too, with laser precision to the acidity, cutting through the lemon flavours of juice, pith, balm and zest with a touch of grapefruit. A slip of creamy lees adds a touch of weight to an otherwise super tight wine. It feels invigorating and lively, rather delicious now but a few more years will show this at its best. 96 Points Jane Faulkner, Halliday Wine Companion