Yeringberg - Babyberg Marsanne Roussane - 2024

Yeringberg is one of Australia’s most venerable vineyards, established in 1863 and now run by fourth-generation vignerons. Given that tradition, it’s perhaps surprising to find a cutting-edge skinsy white emerging from the winery. And yet here it is, in all its aromatic, savoury glory: two-thirds marsanne, fermented on skins before blending with roussanne and ageing for a year in old barrels. Honeysuckle, tangy fruit, a touch of creaminess, and a fine, gentle powdery grip. Cool. Max Allen’s top 20 drinks of the year, AFR